Wine tasting pits California against France
By By Stan Torgerson / wine columnist
Feb. 12, 2003
In May 1976 in Paris at the Intercontinental Hotel's patio bar, a group of prominent French wine professionals met for a blind tasting of top California chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon wines matched against great French wines from Burgundy and Bordeaux.
It became the most famous wine tasting in history.
Two California wineries, Stags Leap and Montelena, took first place in both the red and white wine competition. Stags Leap's cabernet beat such Bordeaux first growths as Mouton-Rothschild and Haut-Brion. Chateau Montelena's 1973 chardonnay rated ahead of a Burgundian lineup that included Mersault Les Charmes, Batard Montrachet and Puligny Montrachet.
A reporter for Time magazine was there and wrote a story about the competition. Major newspapers picked it up. It shocked the wine world and it catapulted California wine to international prominence.
Here in Meridian we are going to duplicate the event at our next tasting which is scheduled for Feb. 27. We are going to match California wines against those from France and may the best wines win.
Every one of the wines selected for this event is rated 90 points or better on the industry's 100-point sale. That puts them in the "outstanding" classification.
We open with whites, a French Brocard Chablis Les Close 1999 rated 92. Here is its review: "Delicious. Thick-textured yet very refined, showing some mineral, smoke, flint, lemon and a touch of honey complexity. Full bodied and layered with pleasurable flavors and long on the finish."
The American competitor is the distinguished Neyers Chardonnay Carneros 2001, rated 91. "Excellent structure with ripe, concentrated pear, nectarine and spicy oak notes, turning complex and gaining depth on a long intricate aftertaste."
Now for the red wines. We will match two premier California cabernets against two distinguished wines from Bordeaux, head to head.
From the Haut-Medoc in France, Chateau Cantemerie 1996, rated 91. "The best Cantemerie in years, beautiful and rich with a wonderful core of fruit. Pretty plum and berry aromas, with hints of tobacco and chocolate lead to a full bodied wine with loads of chocolate and berry flavor."
From California, Silverado Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 rated 91. "Delicious black cherry, spicy plum and blackberry flavors are well-centered, offering depth and richness and finishing with firm tannins wrapped around a core of mocha-laced oak."
Round two. From France, Chateau Camensac 1995, rated 90. "Best Camensac ever. Rich aromas of blackberries and chocolate. Full bodied with sweet, ripe fruit flavors, loads of velvety tannins and a long finish. An absolutely delicious wine for now, for later."
From California, Merryvale Napa Valley Cabernet Reserve 1999, rated 90. "Beautifully focused, intense and supple, with spicy, juicy black cherry, plum and wild berry fruit that's seamless. Finishes with a long, complex aftertaste."
There will also be a door wine, lesser in quality but quite good.
We will not taste blind as they did in France, meaning the labels will not be hidden. But the wines will be served in pairs, meaning one against the other, allowing the tasters to go back and forth between the two in order to make a decision. At the end of the evening we will take a vote in order to determine the winners.
These are expensive wines and we have had to set the price at $30. But it should be fun, doing what others did in Paris back in 1976. California versus France. California wines won that one. Will they win ours?
The date again is Feb. 27. To make a reservation call 482-0930 or mail your check to Wines Unlimited, P.O. Box 5223, Meridian, MS 39302.
