Wines to savor: Price is no object

By By Stan Torgerson / wine columnist
Dec. 29, 2002
Many times I have said, in this space, that what I write is an Everyman's column that has two guidelines.
One, the wine must be available in Mississippi. Two, it must be affordable for the average wine lover. Affordable means $10-$25. Yes, there are cheaper wines, but quality costs only a few dollars more and quality is well worth it.
But today, just to be different, here's a column for Mr. or Mrs. Deep Pockets wine lovers to whom price is no object.
There aren't many of you and, maybe, our other readers will feel like the poor kid with his or her nose pressed to the window of a candy store in which everything sells for a dollar when they only have a dime. But the rich deserve a little attention in addition to envy.
A quick tour
Let's start with Australian wines. The most expensive Australian wine available in Mississippi is the Clarendon Hills Shiraz Liandra. It's yours for a bit over $60 per bottle. Wine writer Robert Parker gave it a rating of 91.
If California chardonnay runs to your taste, a nice bottle of Far Niente is available. Plan to spend about $50 for the 2000 vintage.
Drink the chardonnay before you serve the dinner steak with Far Niente's cabernet sauvignon. This 1999 red was only rated an 87 by one reviewer, but surely it must be better than that at $110 per bottle. Try it and let me know.
If merlot runs to your taste, Stags Leap Estate has a dandy, their Hartwell label. At about $58 a bottle it is a bargain since the wine inside earned a 93 in a recent review.
A nice California pinot noir at $45 can be found. It's the Saintsbury Reserve Carneros, rated 88. You'll love it.
Moving on to France
Up to now I must confess we've been buying everyday wines, very good but not truly great. It's time to move on to France.
We recommend the 1998 Cheval Blanc red wine from Bordeaux. Chevil Blanc is considered one of the world's best wines, as you would expect when you examine the price tag.
Take one home for only $550 but remember, that doesn't include the sales tax. It's rated 98, only two points below absolute perfection. If you're wondering what I'd like for Christmas, you might buy two and give me the one.
If you prefer the red burgundies, and two of my favorite fellow wine lovers do, try a bottle of Domaine Bertagna Clos de Vougeot. I don't understand why they've never popped the cork on one when I've visited their homes because it's a buy at just $125 with a rating of 91. What are good friends for?
There are some nice white burgundies on the state list also. We feel you'll like the Sauzet Puligny Montrachet Folatieres. On sale, it should be around $100 per bottle, even though the wine is only rated 89.
New Year'spossibilities
With New Year's Eve approaching, we have a remarkable pink champagne to recommend, the Dom Perignon Brut Rose. Happy New Year with the Dom for only $200 per bottle. At seven pourings of four ounces each, that's $30 a glass. Make that a happy and prosperous New Year. This is a wine rated 94 so it would be perfect to use in welcoming 03.
For those of you who like lighter, more fruity wines, the Rhones from France are perfect. Paul Jaboulet is one of the Rhone's finest wine makers and he offers his 1997 Cote-Rotie Les Jumelles for just under $70 each. Parker rates it at 90-93 with the 90 if you drink it now and the 93 if you allow it to age until 2023.
Italy has been making some lovely wines, the best of which, if price is the yardstick, is the Toscana Luce Della Vite for $65. Try it with pasta.
There's not much from the Pacific Northwest to interest you. There's a $45 Dom Serene Pinot Noir Evensta Reserve that's a nice-tasting wine rated 91, but that's about it.
Big finish
To end the evening, we need a fine dessert wine and we do have an outstanding port to recommend. This is truly a great wine. I can personally recommend it. As I said, what are friends for, particularly generous friends willing to share?
It is Warres Vintage Port 1977 and you can put a bottle on your table for just $140. This one is worth every penny, sorry, make that every dollar.
So there you have it. I've done my bit for the rich. Next week we'll go back to just being common, ordinary you-and-me drinking common more-or-less ordinary wines … promise.