Planning for spring bulb beauty
By By Steve Strong / area horticulture extension agent
Sept. 25, 2002
Just like a pro baseball pitcher, Mother Nature threw gardeners a perfect curve ball this week with a refreshing cool breeze to mark the first day of fall.
Believe or nor not, bulb planting season is nearly upon us marked by the transition from baseball to football season, and from lawn mowing to flower bed mulching.
As soil temperatures begin to dip into the 40s next month, it is time to think about planting your favorite flower bulbs for a spectacular display of spring color. By choosing the right bulb varieties, gardeners can extend the blooming season from January through April, and can count on many of these spring beauties to return each season as perennial performers.
Daffodils top the list of dependable perennial bulbs, but it is important to pick the right variety when planning for repeat blooming.
The large yellow King Alfred types make a magnificent showing during their first season, but generally do not get enough cold chilling during the winter months to set good flowers for the next spring bloom. Paperwhite Narcissus falls into the same category.
This also holds true for most of the tulip varieties that are more or less a "one-shot" deal, blooming great the first year only to disappoint the perennial gardener with stunted flowers and foliage in subsequent seasons.
There is nothing wrong with replanting these regal garden wonders each winter; just be ready for the extra work and expense.
The right depth for each bulb
Other spring-flowering bulbs include crocus, hyacinth and iris, and each of these can provide perennial blooming depending upon several factors. Some bulbs require less cold weather than others to set new flower buds, and it takes a little homework to figure out which ones do best in Mississippi.
Planting depth is critical for any type of bulb. The rule of thumb is to plant most bulbs at least twice as deep as their diameter.
Plant tulips and daffodils 21/2 to 3 times deeper than their thickness to protect them from summer's heat.
Crocus bulbs are planted just a few inches under the surface to ensure they make it out of the ground. Squirrels and chipmunks will quickly devour them, so if you have a lot of shade trees, beware.
Irises are an exception. Because they are prone to tuber rot, planted them right on the surface, even with the soil line. The same is true of summer-blooming canna lilies and caladiums.
To avoid disease problems over time, do not mulch these shallow-planted bulbs, and remember that any bulb variety will bloom more dependably if it is divided every few years to reduce competition in the root system.
Bulb chilling and bed preparation
Cold chilling is essential for most bulbs. With the mild winters of the deep South, this can be done by placing the bulbs in the refrigerator vegetable drawer for six to eight weeks before planting.
Tulips depend on this artificial chilling most of all, and it's important to avoid placing them in the fridge with apples or fruit that produces ethylene gas because it causes flower buds to spout prematurely.
Successful bulb gardeners stimulate larger repeat blooms by applying an extra dose (teaspoon) of phosphorus in the bottom of each planting hole, either from an organic source like bone meal or concentrated super-phosphate.
Planting some of the bulbs at different depths is another gardening trick to extend the bloom period for several weeks, and mass planting in quantity is always the best way to show off your favorite flowers.
Soil test before planting through the MSU Extension Service for tailor-made recommendations for any type of flower bed, and be sure to till the soil thoroughly to promote maximum root growth. Planting for spring blooms should be done before Christmas, so get started early on bulb chilling and bed preparation.
