French wines out-price themselves for many Americans
By By Stan Torgerson / wine columnist
Feb. 19, 2003
The red wines of Bordeaux have long been the yardstick by which the world's wines are measured. To an extent, they still are measured that way by the rich and famous who can afford them.
But in recent years they have become so pricey that they have forced the average American wine lover to turn to California, Australia, Spain, Chile and other countries that produce good quality at affordable prices.
Those consumers who buy their wines by the grape from which they were produced cabernet sauvignon, merlot or zinfandel, for example sometimes are confused because this information is rarely included on the labels of wines from France.
The reason is that virtually all the wines from Bordeaux are a conglomerate of various grapes with no agreed-on percentage or standard of the blends.
Each wine can be distinctive because each winemaker has a different idea of what mix produces the best product.
For example, virtually all Bordeaux chateaux blend cabernet with other red grape varieties. In the Medoc area, the average percentage of cabernet can range from 40 percent to 85 percent.
In the Graves area, it runs from 40 percent to 60 percent. St Emilion is 10 percent to 50 percent and Pomerol 0 percent to 20 percent. Pomeral leans toward the merlot grape and their wines can be as little as 35 percent merlot to as much as 98 percent with just a splash of cabernet put in the mix.
In America, what you see is what you get. In France, what you get is what you taste.
The 2000 vintage is now coming on the market in Bordeaux. It is being hailed by some reviewers as the best vintage since 1961. I've heard that song before.
The 1995 was the best. Before that, the 1990. Before that, the 1989. Forgive the skepticism. There is no doubt there were some great wines made in 2000. But there some bad ones as well. The trick is knowing which is which.
In truth, it is all academic. Unless you're one of the rich and famous previously mentioned you will never know nor will I.
Perhaps you will recognize these names as being some of the great wines of France. Chateau Lafite Rothschild, for example. It's 2000 vintage is coming on the market at $400 per bottle. Chateau Latour is priced at $475.
Chateau Petrus may be the greatest red wine in the world. It had better be. The asking price for a 2000 Petrus is $1,800 per bottle.
Remember these are wines that will not be ready to drink for 10 years or more. Think what those who buy them and put them away will demand when the wines mature.
Example. In 1983 I bought the 1982 Mouton Rothschild at $440 for a full case. Today that wine commands $1,500 to $2,000 a bottle. Same wine. Just 20 years older. And incidentally, it's great but not worth that kind of money. Take my word for it.
That's what will make next week's wine tasting so interesting. Those who attend will have the opportunity to compare several fine American cabernets to French Bordeaux wines, head-to-head.
All wines to be served are rated 90 or above on the industry's accepted 100-point scale, so technically they are of equal quality. We will find out if that is true.
We've had to make one change in the American lineup.
The state warehouse has run out of the Merryvale so we will taste the 1999 Napa Valley Pine Ridge instead. It scored 90 and the review says "smooth textured with well-focused current, toasty oak, black cherry and plum notes. Excellent structure, depth and concentration. Finishes with a long, complex, even subtle aftertaste."
Sounds like a worthy representative for American cabernet.
The other American wine will be the Silverado Vineyards cabernet 1999. It is rated 91.
The two French wines are Chateau Camensac 1995 (90) and Chateau Cantemerle 1996. The Cantemerle is rated 91 so we will match it against the Silverado.
In addition, we will taste two fine whites against each other, an American chardonnay and a French chablis from Burgundy.
There also will be a door wine that will not be part of the competition.
As mentioned last week, this is our version of the 1976 tasting in Paris American wines against French. The American wines swept the table in what is considered the greatest tasting ever held.
The date is Feb. 27. It will be at Northwood Country Club, as usual, and anyone is welcome to come. You need not be a club member. We do request you make a reservation by calling 482-0930. We must know how much wine to have available.
The tasting is $30 and you should send your check to Wines Unlimited, P.O. Box 5223 Meridian, MS 39302. The tasting begins at 6:30 p.m.
